“In January 1899 Picasso returned to Barcelona after his stay in Horta de Sant Joan. From then on he became a full member of the Catalan avant-garde. The meeting point and the heart of the Catalan artistic and literary world was the famous café Quatre Gats, which opened on 12 June 1897 in Monsió Street. It was an initiative of Miguel Utrillo in association with Rusiño and Casas and the manager was Pere Romeu. The young Picasso’s fellow habitués were Carles Casagemas, Jaume Sabarstés, Ramon and Cinto Reventos, Mateu and Angel Fernåandez de Soto, Joaquim Mir, Hermen Anglada Camarasa Isidre Nonell and Ramon Pichot.” –Museo Picasso
Quatre Gats, a landmark of the modern artistic movement of the early 20th century, still exists on Carrer Montsió, a small pedestrian-only side street in el Burno neighborhood of Barcelona. Quatre Gats may be comparable to Gertrude Stein’s infamous Parisian apartment, the regular hang out of Picasso’s French and Expatriate contemporaries. Indeed, the rich history of Quatre Gats is immediately apparent upon arrival. Every inch of available wall space is taken up by framed prints of Picasso sketches, and the décor looks as if it has not been updated in the past century.
This is not to say that the scene at Quatre Gats is dead. We stopped in for a late supper on a weekday night and were greeted by jovial waiters dancing and singing to the pianist playing various Spanish and American tunes in the corner. The large dining room was nearly filled with guests drinking wine and in no rush to leave.
But Quatre Gats was certainly not extraordinary for its cuisine. The food was not of bad quality, but it was mostly lacking in flavor and creativity. We began the meal with a green salad, which was fine, and croquettes. The croquettes were soft and bland; my mom said they reminded her of food she served in the nursing home in which she volunteered. (“What? Don’t you think this is perfect food for them?!”)
Our main courses were more interesting. The Mediterranean seabass was good, grilled with olive oil and served with potatoes. I insisted that we try arrós negre, a classic Catalan dish of rice with fish, cuddle fish in this case, that is dyed black and served like paella in a cast iron pot. My sister, despite having been in Barcelona for three months, had not yet tried it and felt slightly uneasy about the concept of the dish: the black dye is actually squid ink. She was very concerned about where the ink comes out of the squid. So, for anyone else who may have the same question, I did a little research.
While in the wild, squid expel a cloud of dark ink to intimidate and confuse potential predators when the feel threatened. The ink sac is a muscular bag that lies behind the gut and does indeed open into the anus. However, this is not how squid ink is obtained for cooking. A chef must obtain a whole squid (pre-cleaned will have the ink removed) and then extract the ink from both the main ink sac as described above and the small secondary sacs behind the eyes. The ink, along with the sacs, can be added to the desired recipe. For those who would like the flavor and aesthetic benefits of squid ink but are not so sure they want to try this process, pasta dyed with squid ink can be bought ready-made.
The arrós negre was my favorite dish of the night. The cuddle fish was tender, the short- grained rice had a nice texture, and the squid ink had a nice salty and not-too-fishy flavor. While the arrós negre tasted good, I did not look cute eating it. As I was chatting and spooning it into my mouth, my sister announced to the table, “Ew, look at Maddie’s mouth.” It was completely black. This might be something to think about if you are trying to impress on a date.
Overall, the food at Quatre Gats is just like the food that can be found on any block of the city. However, the restaurant is special for its history and its atmosphere. I would recommend stopping in during the day for a café or a glass of vino, just to order something off the menu that was designed and sketched by the young Picasso at the beginning of his career.
Carrer Montsió 3 Bis
Teléfon: 93 302 41 40